What to put inside a Hamster cage?

Floor Covering - Bedding
A covering is required for the floor of the cage to provide an anti-slip surface for the hamster and also to soak up the urine. The most common type of floor covering used is woodshavings. Cedar shavings are best avoided - these have a red tint to them - as the phenols they contain can cause severe irritations in hamsters. Although Pine is a softwood but pine shavings can promote liver, lung and intestinal problems. Shavings from hardwoods such as Aspen are best or there are products made from corn cob, paper or wood pulp which are designed as a floor covering for small animal cages. Avoid using scented shavings as hamsters can be severely affected by such hydrocarbons in a very short amount of time due to their high-metabolism and oxygen intake.

Nesting Material
A hamster will appreciate some bedding material with which to build a "nest". Bedding material can be bought in pet shops but any fluffy cotton wool type bedding should be avoided as this can cause harm if eaten by the hamster and the fine fibres can become caught around the hamster's limb causing injury. Do not give your hamster pieces of material or wool, etc for bedding material as this will also cause problems if eaten by the hamster as it will not dissolve in the stomach and may cause a blockage. If in doubt as to whether any bedding material is safe for your hamster - do not use it. Soft paper bedding is best as this causes no harm if eaten and is easily broken. It is not necessary to buy nesting material as this can be provided much cheaper simply by taking undyed and unscented toilet paper or paper towel and tearing it into strips for your hamster. Hay can also be used but it should be clean and not mouldy or dusty. Any hay is suitable, as long it is fresh looking(greenish), avoid stale hay(brownish). Straw should not be used as the sharp edges can injure a hamster.

Exercise Wheel
When awake hamsters can be very lively - in the wild they may travel several miles in one night as they forage for food. Therefore most hamster will appreciate an exercise wheel. Many of the hamster cages available today already have exercise wheels fitted but if the cage you have bought does not then it is also possible to buy free standing wheels which can be placed in a cage or tank/aquarium. Any wheel provided should have a solid back and a solid running surface. A hamster can slip on a wheel which has a runged running surface and if it gets its foot caught between the rungs as the wheel is turning it can injure itself. Wheels which have open back or front and back with a bar across the diameter can also injure the hamster if the hamster should stick its head out whilst running. Although most hamsters enjoy an exercise wheel, not all do and so you shouldn't be worried if your hamster doesn't use it. Some hamsters on the other hand can become quite addicted to their exercise wheels.

Water Bottle
A hamster requires constant access to water. A water bottle is best as a hamster will often kick woodshavings into a dish or may knock it over. Water bottles with ball-bearings in the tube tend to better than those without. Have a good quality bottle for water at hand. Cheap bottles tend to leak.

Food Dish
A food dish is not absolutely vital but using a food dish does enable you to use this as a measure of food you are giving and it is easier to see how much food the hamster is eating. It is best to use a ceramic or metal food dish. Plastic dishes are easily chewed by hamsters.

House
There are various "houses" for sale in petshops and a hamster will use these for nesting in. However, if these do not have a ventilated top or open front condensation can build up within the house. Although all houses sold at petshops are suitable for Dwarf Hamsters, not all are suitable for Syrian Hamsters as the doorways and windows may be too small for some large Syrian Hamsters.

Wooden Blocks
There are various wooden blocks and climbing frames available for hamsters with holes the hamster can travel through. These are more suitable only for Dwarf Hamsters as the holes on many are too small for a Syrian Hamster to climb through.

Sand Bath
A sand bath can be provided by placing a suitable sized dish in the cage filled with hamster bathing sand. Ceramic or Metal containers which are not easily tipped are best used. There are also various bathroom/toilet with fancy designs are sold in petshops. Hamsters, particularly Dwarf Hamsters, appreciate having a dish of sand to roll in and this helps to remove the greasiness from the coat - remember in the wild they live in deserts so this is natural for them.

Plastic Boots
There are various play "boots" designed for hamsters with holes that the hamster can climb in and out of. Be sure to check all holes are a suitable size to allow the hamster to easily climb through as some are only suitable for smaller hamsters.

Tubes and See-Saws
There are a variety of plastic or wooden tubes and see-saws sold in petshops for small animals. These are suitable for Dwarf Hamsters and the larger ones are suitable for Syrian Hamsters also.

Mineral and Salt Blocks
Many Pet Shops stock mineral blocks and salt blocks for hamsters. These are not really necessary for the hamster's well being.

Cardboard Tubes
Old cardboard tubes or toilet roll tubes can be provided for the hamster and it will enjoy using it as something to climb through, on or nest in as well as chewing it to pieces.

Wood Gnaws
Wood gnaws are available in Pet Shops or you can provide your own by supplying the hamster with a piece of apple branch. These provide the hamster with something on which to gnaw in order to keep its teeth trim.


Cage Preparations

Before preparing the cage you should consider where you are going to place the cage. The cage should be placed away from direct sunlight, away from draughts and in a room of constant temperature. Avoid putting the cage near a heater where the hamster may become hot and be sure to put the cage out of the way of any other pets which may harm your hamster.

To prepare the cage:
- Place a good layer of woodshavings on the floor(s) of the cage.
- Fill the water bottle with water and fix it to the cage at a height that the hamster will be able to reach comfortably. Check by running your finger over the end of the spout that it is delivering water. If it is not give the bottle a little squeeze, dry the end of the spout and run your finger over it again. Pet Shops sell liquid vitamins which can be added to the water and these can be particularly beneficial if your hamster is ill.
- If you are using a food dish fill it with hamster food and place this in the cage.
- Place any cage accessories in suitable positions within the cage.
- Place a handful of nesting material in the cage or inside the hamster's "house".
- Fix the Exercise Wheel to the side of the cage or if you have a free standing wheel place this in a suitable position in the cage.

Important Notes
- The bigger the cage or tank, the more comfortable for the hamster.
- Syrians need to be living alone, and of course being the bigger version of hamsters, they need bigger cages or tanks.
- Syrians need a big wheel with at least 8 inches in diameter.
- Different species should not be housed together as this would be highly stressful to them.
- Most hamsters do very well in staying alone. Roborovski hamsters can be kept in small groups and best if single sexed. Some Winter Whites and Russian Cambell Dwarf Hamsters actually do fight for territory, so always keep an eye on them.
- Hamsters do not have human emotion, they do not have emotional feelings like humans. There really is no reason to keep different sexes in the same cage/tank unless you have a purpose as a true hamster breeder.
- Never breed hamsters if you do not have the space. Hamsters can reproduce every 20 days or so and you may end up with more than 20 cages/tanks.
- Hamster fights/matings are never fun to watch.
- Wash the hamster cage/tank once in a week. Just wash with some mild soapy water. Clean cages/tanks prevents the risk of getting infections.
- Hamsters do not need to bath with water and soap like humans. Hamsters can clean themselves very well and they enjoy having sand baths(hamster sandbath) more than getting wet. A wet hamster can fall sick easily.
- Never wake up sleeping hamsters since they can startle easily and give a nasty bite to protect themselves. This is an instinct reaction, so do not blame a hamster for being aggressive... they bite when there is a reason to bite.
- Always wash your hands after handling hamsters for they are still from the rodent family. Keep your self healthy for your hamster.


Recommended Products/Brands

Bedding
Chipsi Classic, Chipsi Super, Delikate, Kaytee Aspen, Kaytee Hay, Kaytee Kay-cob corncob bedding, Woody Pet wood pellets, Careline wood cat litter, CareFresh recycled paper bedding/litter, Breeder's Celect/Back2Nature recycled paper bedding/litter .

Hamster Mix
Harry Hamsters, Prestige, Habitrail, Sluis

Exercise Wheel
Wodent Wheel


One of Our Hamsters' Fan - ANT

If fresh food or sweet stuff like fruits are given to your pets, do take note of ants. If ants were seen, take out the hamsters and washed the cage. Even some of the commercial hamster mix do attract ants very well. For a safety practice, buy some ant powder and put it arround your cage/tank area to prevent ants. Or a more easier way is to spray your cage/tank surrounding with vinegar, but becareful on doing this and don't drop the vinegar into your cage/tank.

If there are pups in the cage, the problem becomes more trickier as the question arises: how do I moved the pups safely??

First, prepare a temporary tank or container with bedding. Moved the female over. Then scooped the pups over with a spoon. Some people might ask: Is there a difference when I moved the pups over then the mummy?? The answer is: Yes. When you moved the mummy over first, she will be sniffing around in the temporary home, and before she knows, her pups are there too. She will appear frantic. Its common that she hold one of the pup in her mouth and run around wildly. Do not be alarmed by this gesture as she is finding a safe spot for her pups. Ignore her and have the washing done quickly. If you want to move the pups over first, the moment your spoon goes down, the female will show signs of aggression. An extreme female will kill her pups as detected signs of danger. Moving her over will be difficult as she is agitated now. The difference in this two sequence is that the female do or do not get to see their pups being moved. So how to move the family back to the clean cage?? Same thing applies, move the female over followed by the pups. The most important thing in this whole process is not avoid contact between you and the pups.